Taiwan Odyssey 2023
My mother-in-law, Kuo A Hsin, was married to my father-in-law when she was just about 18 years of age, moving with him and her young family from Taiwan to Singapore shortly after. Having rarely travelled outside the rural township of Chiayi in central Taiwan where she was born and raised, she was therefore unacquainted to the sights and sounds in other parts of Taiwan (save perhaps the southern city of Kaohsiung where she met her life partner). She had always yearned to enjoy the beauty of Taiwan island as a tourist. After 53 years or so of life in Singapore, she would finally realise that dream. In 2023, my mom-in-law, affectionately known to her grandchildren as A Bi, would undertake a 2-week whirlwind tour of Taiwan with them- Audrey and Ethan, and me. The following is a photo essay of that trip.
2nd Dec (Day 1): Changi, Singapore to Taoyuan, Taiwan
Flying first class on Singapore Airlines! Audrey and A Bi fly in style and making the most of it. Sampling a pre-selected meal on board SQ878, bound for Taoyuan International Airport- wok fried prawns in superior sauce.
Taoyuan to Taichung
After the hustle of airport immigration and customs, we make contact with Ah Cheng, our guide and driver for our 14-day Taiwan journey. The four of us were comfortably ensconced in his at least 8-seater van on the way to Taichung. Had a dinner date to keep with A Bi's side of the family that evening.
Having dinner with a Bi's siblings in Taichung. Smiles all around when we weren't stuffing ourselves! Top left: A Bi and her sisters
We were to stay at 10 different hotels throughout this 2-week tour around Taiwan island. A boy appears impressed by his bedroom at hotel number one- the Splendor Hotel Taichung, and I must say that the kids continued to be impressed right until Hotel number 10! I was to room in with A boy while Audrey would be sharing room with A Bi for this trip.
A boy tucking in a hearty morning breakfast!
3rd Dec (Day 2) Miaoli County and Taichung
On Day 2 of our Taiwan trip, A Bi would not be joining us for the day's sightseeing and activities. Instead, she would be meeting up with Di Wu Su Su and Sen Sen in Taichung. Their son, Xiao Ming was a teacher at a secondary school just a stone's throw away from our hotel. Ah Cheng picked Audrey, Ethan and me up at the hotel and we were off to Miaoli County.
Along the way, we disembarked from our `bikes' to appreciate the scenery and history of the surrounding countryside. At left: the famous Longteng broken bridge in Sanyi township. This Japanese era bridge has fallen and been destroyed by numerous earthquakes.
Image from: www.foreignersintaiwan.com/blog-370963385326684/what-is-there-to-do-and-see-in-miaoli
At the wheel of our 4-seater bike, surrounded by the gorgeous Miaoli countryside
Our next stop was Zhongshe Flower Market in Taichung, where we found ourselves surrounded by fields of lovely sunflowers, lavenders and tulips, ponds and photo props like giant frames and windmills.
Photos by Ah Cheng at Zhongshen Flower Market; Models: Audrey, Ethan and Andrew
There was also a band with a saxophonist belting out Mandarin oldies on a stage near the entrance of the flower market. Hearing some of the nostalgic melodies lifted my spirits and reminded me of the time I had spent with Audrey in similar parks during our visits to Japan when she was in secondary school and junior college. We learnt then of Ah Cheng's previous career as a wedding photographer- he extended his skill and interest in helping us to take our photos, by having us pose in various manners, including the execution of carefully timed jumps in the flower fields!
4th Dec (Day 3) Nantou County and Cingjing Farm
Left: Audrey feeding sheep in in the highlands of Nantou County; Right: A Bi doing alright in the drizzle
Following an hour of walking along a path carved upon the rugged slopes of Cingjing farm and encountering occasional sheep along the way (left), we attended a horse show at a small stadium nearby (right). Before long, we were back in Ah Cheng's van, heading towards a nearby BnB in the highlands, where we would be spending the night.
Cingjing Aixunge Guild Hall BnB
Our luxurious BnB for the night in Nantou County. with an amazing view of the surrounding countryside from the living room window, which was on the first level of the 3-storied room. My bed with its giant alpaca soft toy at the top level (top right), Audrey and Ethan's beds laid side by side in the middle level (left). A Bi was in the neighbouring room. Below: The glorious scenery that greeted us in the morning
5th Dec (Day 4) - The ox-cart, Sun Moon Lake and the Journey to Alishan
Next day's morning activity was truly a treat for us. We were to be brought out to the coast for a ride in a buffalo cart. We were told to rise early- as it is said, time and tide wait for no one, and in this instance, the cart needed to go out to the mudflats before the tide came in later in the morning. Right: An eighty plus year old Grandpa was to lead the cart, as he had been doing almost every morning for several decades. Left: Audrey and Ethan donning `hooved shoes' on their feet for their exploration of the mudflats.
Left: coursing through a quaint coastal village on the way to the coast. Centre: Audrey having her go at leading the cart; Right: At the back of the motor wagon that would bring us back to the village. Our hosts barbecued for us generous portions of fish and oysters, for our sampling.
The experience of a lifetime on the mudflats- with the cool and fresh morning air blowing into our faces as we ride straight out in the direction of the sea, enjoying the scenery of oyster farms, mudskippers and egrets on either side, while wind fans stand like giant sentinels in the distance.
Many years ago, while pursuing my undergraduate degree at NUS, my erstwhile pal and lab partner, Kian Ping introduced me to the lyrics of a Taiwanese song on that famed mountain called Alishan:
高山青 涧水蓝
Gaoshan qing jian shui lan
阿里山的姑娘美如水呀
ali shan de guniang mei rushui ya
阿里山的少年壮如山唉 啊……
ali shan de shaonian zhuang rushan ai a……
Oh, high green mountain and blue creek water...
Ah, the lasses of Alishan are as beautiful as water!
Ah, the lads of Alishan are as strong as mountains!
I couldn't believe that day 3 of my trip would see me make that journey of a lifetime to Alishan itself. But before that, we would be witness to the beauty of Taiwan's equally famous Sun Moon Lake, and even enjoying a boat ride on its waters.
Left: enjoying the beauty of Sun Moon Lake from the stern of the boat; Right: Audrey at the wheel of the boat, the captain saying `You're putting me out of my job!'
Views inside the boat
After half an hour or so of introducing the landmarks surrounding the lake, the driver steered the boat towards Xuan Guang temple pier at the other end of the lake. Here, we were to sample the famous `A Ma's tea leaf eggs', that had a rich history behind them. For 60 years A Ma had been selling these delicious eggs, that were made by marinading in a mushroom and tea concoction. Although she had passed on a few years earlier, her family was continuing the business and retaining the A Ma brand. We also climbed the steps up to Xuan Zhang's temple - this was the famed monk who had travelled overland to India in the seventh century to obtain Buddhist sutras, inspiring the classic tale of the Journey to the West.
Breathtaking view on the way to Alishan.
Chilling out on the viewing deck during dusk, shortly after arriving at the Alishan hotel. The evening glow settling on the mountains in shades of purple is unforgettable.
Early the following morning, A boy and I set out on our mini-adventure within this Taiwan trip- to catch a glimpse of the sunrise from the highest point of Alishan. The railroad up the mountains had been originally built by the Japanese for logging but was now a major tourist attraction. We were up before 5 am to catch the hotel shuttle bus that would bring us to the railway station, where we were to queue for the Alishan Mountain Railway tickets. With the tickets in hand, we joined a second queue to board the train itself. The air was heavy in anticipation as the train pulled into the station, which still retained announcements in the Japanese language. On board the train, plodding through the darkness before dawn, we learnt interesting snippets of history from the announcement system. Soon, we arrived at Chushan station, which is the highest railway station in Taiwan. Alighting from the train, we quickly made our way to the lookout point, which was already crowded with hordes of tourists waiting for the sunrise!
Top left: Viewing the sunrise from the highest railway station in Taiwan; right: all smiles on the Top of the World; Bottom left: At Alishan station; centre: a voracious Ethan (no prior breakfast) downing freshly baked egg roll; right: posing in front of the Alishan Mountain train.
6th Dec (Day 5) Trek through Alishan forest, Leaving Alishan for Kaohsiung
We spent two days at the ping kuan (government resthouse) on the slopes of Alishan. Ah Cheng had left his van parked at a carpark which was as far as public vehicles could go up the mountains, and our trips to and from the resthouse to the carpark were made by the hotel shuttle bus. We met Ah Cheng at that very carpark on our second day at Alishan. From there, we made our way to the railway station which Ethan and I had visited before dawn, just the day before. In the bright light of the morning, we had more photos taken at the railway building. Then, we took the same railway up the mountain to a station where we would begin a trek, downhill, through the forest. We dropped off A Bi at a station at a lower altitude, where she would wait for us.
The forest was beautiful. I remember the colours, green and brown, the bark of trees dappled with the deeper green of moss and the forest floor covered with soft undergrowth. This was the timber that the Japanese had come for, and for which they had built the railroad. Now, that same railroad brought hordes of locals and tourists alike up the mountains, to appreciate the natural beauty and true value of the forest.
After lunch, we left Alishan for a long ride in the van to the southern city of Kaohsiung. On the way, we got off the van to walk across the historical Duonagao suspension bridge that was not far off from our destination. As the single lane pedestrian bridge can only support a limited number of people at a time, we waited a short while for our turn. Being about a 100 meters high, we were glad that none of us were vertiginous! The head of the bridge was decorated with totems of the Rukai, an indigenous tribe of Taiwan, and they had been using the bridge since the time of the Japanese rule.
As we drove into the city limits of Kaohsiung, I spontaneously snapped photos of my surroundings and sent them to I Chun. Her dad's side of the family hailed from the nearby district of Pingtung, and she had been born close by. Maybe my father-in-law would feel some pangs of nostalgia, looking at the photos, although it was unlikely that I Chun herself would remember the place well, having left Taiwan when she was just three years of age!
It was about this time that Audrey received news that she had cleared another stage of the lengthy application process for internship at Bloomberg. However, she would have to sit for the next online interview stage in Kaohsiung itself. Thus, she would be staying behind at the hotel for the assessment, and miss the itinerary for the next day, which was started with our visit to Fo Guang Shan.
7 Dec (Day 6) Fo Guangshan Temple and Kaohsiung's Art District
Early the next morning, we found ourselves in Ah Cheng's van, on the way to Fo Guangshan, which was only a few minutes drive to the outskirts of Kaohsiung City. This is actually the headquarters of a Buddhist organisation in Taiwan that practises Humanistic Buddhism and is the largest monastery in Taiwan. It was beautiful in the temple grounds, the architecture being designed and decorated to represent the Buddha's teachings and the progress towards enlightenment. We emerged from the monastery substantially more serene than when we entered, having immersed ourselves in its peaceful atmosphere, being fortunate to engage in prayer, pay homage to the Buddha tooth relic, and enjoy a vegetarian lunch along the way!
It was already late afternoon when we arrived at the Pier-2 Art Center, situated at the Kaohsiung Port. Also known as the Kaohsiung Art District, this was a unique open art space, providing an environment for artists and students to express themselves. I was impressed by the impressionist murals and graffiti on the walls of the buildings and sculptures there that screamed `expression'!, which we appreciated while ambling along the waterfront in the light of the setting sun. Ethan and I snapped photos on the nearby bridge, which was a work of art by itself, enjoying the peaceful and relaxed atmosphere that was almost like an interlude during our whirlwind tour.
Coming back to our hotel in Kaohsiung, we were glad to hear from Audrey that the assessment round for her Bloomberg application had gone well. We had time in the evening to stroll through the night market that was being held on the street just outside the hotel compound, savouring the sights and smells of the locality, and especially the food.
8th Dec (Day 7) Leaving Kaohsiung, Hengchun Old Town, meeting the Pacific and Taiwan's most beautiful railway station, on to Taitung
Leaving Kaohsiung, we entered Pingtung county. As this was I Chun's birthplace, I snapped some photos of the scenery to remember that I had been there too!
Had banana shaving and ice cream at Heng Chun old town...
Before finally meeting the Pacific on Taiwan's East Coast!
We followed the coastal road all the way up Taiwan's East Coast. Along the way was a sight not to be missed- Taiwan's most beautiful railway station. Perched on a ledge overlooking the railway track, we were among the many tourists who were snapping photos of each other, and of course, filming the locomotive as it rolled gracefully past!
We were now in Taitung County, with its relatively large indigenous population. Stopping for a delicious lunch, with local ingredients, at a restaurant that obviously took pride in its heritage- the interior deco certainly testified to that! Here, A Bi spoke to the proprietor, a young lady who was thoroughly surprised to learn that Audrey was just a few years younger than she was.
9th Dec (Day 8) The Forest Museum, ride in the paddy fields
Early morning scenery outside our hotel window at the Sheraton Taitung
We were up early in the morning, for what would be a day packed with an enriching itinerary. And it began with the Luanshan Forest Cultural Museum. This was hosted by the Bunun tribe. Our guide was a young humorous Bunun chap who told us the story of how the Museum came to be. Their ancestral forest was in danger of being lost to development, and only saved by the efforts of one Aliman, our guide's teacher. He had dug into his own pockets, taken out loans from banks and borrowed from friends and relatives in order to buy the land upon which the forest stood. The unique museum that we were about to visit constituted part of his effort to introduce the world at large to the rainforest heritage of the Bunun, while helping to raise funds to service the enormous loans. But we could testify, at least in our eyes, that it was all worth it. The tour began with an exploration of the forest, the only remaining one in Taiwan with Banyan trees. And it was the species that dictated the nature of our short trek to the forest -- we had squeeze through the narrow gap between two rock faces and go on all fours at times, to clamber the terrain shaped by the roots and vines of the banyan. Before going into the forest, I represented our group of four in a ceremony to honour, and perhaps appease, the spirits of the domain that we were about to enter, This involved sprinkling some wine on an altar decorated with the skulls of what I believe to be some of the forest creatures.
Lunch was an unforgettable meal of local meat and vegetables. In the spirit of sustainability, many of the visitors had brought their own containers which they duly washed themselves afterwards. Keeping to the same spirit, the visit to the forest ended with a tree planting activity.
Audrey and Ethan making their way through the forest circuit and having a great time
My lunch at the forest museum - all vegetables!
A boy having a go at making mua chee, in the traditional way!
At the paddy fields, I was reminded of a Taiwanese song that had brought pangs of nostalgia to I Chun and her friend Hai Ching when they were in school many years ago.
10th Dec (Day 9)
Right: A Bi making a charitable donation to some needy families at an indigenous village in Taitung; Left: taking the cue, Audrey and a boy lend a hand too!
A memorable kayaking expedition to an isolated pebbly shore of a lake, where we went crab hunting. If felt glad that the crabs were released back into their natural habitat afterwards!
An opportunity to hone our archery skills!
11th Dec (Day 10)
The most beautiful Starbucks, living up to its name
Audrey and Ethan having fun motoring by the beach, while Papa sputters not far behind
12th Dec (Day 11)
L: Taroko Shanyue village, where we spent two memorable nights in a breathtaking landscape, savouring the rich culture of the local indigenous people. R: Audrey and Ethan, setting off on a trek at Taroko gorge.
At the dinner table at Shanyue village- the dining room was a stone's throw away from our cabin. R: Bringing back the bacon- hunting was an important part of the Taroko (Truku) tribe's traditional way of life.
Top panel: scenery in the Shanyue village compound; Bottom panel: Drinking in the breathtaking beauty of Taroko Gorge from Buluowan suspension bridge
13th Dec (Day 12)
Making dumplings at a farm in Yilan; Sitting a shop on the farm
Beautiful view from the high ground of Jiufen
Penning good wishes for our sky lantern, released from the railtrack at Shifen Old Street
14th Dec (Day 13)
Arriving at Taipeh at sundown, the last stop on our Taiwan Odyssey
A Bi has turned tourist guide- leading us through a familiar route to Taiwan Rail Station, for more shopping, of course!
15th Dec (Day 14): Touring Taipeh
Enjoying delicious, shaved ice mango dessert in downtown Taipeh
16th Dec (Day 14) Homeward bound
A farewell wefie with our excellent guide, Ah Cheng!
Precious memories: sharing mua chee at a carpark outside a restaurant; working in the hotel bathroom while the kids sleep; an encounter with T Rex!
PROLOGUE
Exactly one year later, I look at the blog and photos of our Taiwan trip and reminisce of that time and place. From the highlands of Nantou County to the slopes of Alishan, from the refreshing ride in a buffalo cart on the mudflats, to the to the breathtaking beauty of Taroko Gorge, our journey through Taiwan was one that we will never forget in our lifetimes. The memories of our sojourn there can never be erased, only to be merged with new experiences from the future, when we return to the beautiful island.
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